Phoenix Appliance Air Conditioning Heating Repair and Service
Phoenix Air Conditioning, Heating and Appliance Repair
Home > Phoenix Air Conditioning Repair

When your air conditioner doesn't blow cold air or you have any other problems, we are available for all your air conditioning repair needs 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. We provide same day service and our service call is free with the repair. Our low price repair policy will give you assurance that you are getting the lowest price for your air conditioning repair. Call us 24/7 at our Toll Free line:


Please Note: We Do Not Sell Parts

We repair the All Air Conditioning brands:

American Standard
AO Smith
Montgomery Wards
O'Keefe and Merritt

AP Wagner
Arctic Circle
Magic Chef

Modern Maid
Bell & Gossett
check the rest of the brands we repair

Our Service areas includes All the Phoenix and surrounding areas

Paradise Valley
Palo Verde
Litchfield Park
Luke Air Force Base
Gold Camp
New River
view all of the Phoenix areas that we service

If you would like to learn more about your air conditioning please read the information below. It will help you to improve the efficiency of your air conditioning and reduce your utility and repair bills. However we strongly encourage you DON’T get involved in appliance repairs in which you are not familiar and that involves working with electrical or gas components. Unfortunately we have seen some people try it and it always turns out to be costly. And, most important, it can put your safety at risk, which cannot be repaired or replaced. Call us today at:



An air conditioner has four jobs to do in making you comfortable on a hot, humid day: it cools the air; it removes moisture from the air; it filters out dust; and it circulates the air inside the room Figure 1 illustrates a complete cooling cycle. The compressor, a kind of pump, compresses the refrigerant gas, thereby raise its temperature to about 210° Fahrenheit. The hot gas is forced through the pipe and carried outside the room to the hot pipe coil. A fan blows outside air across the coil, cooling the gas to about 115° F. and turning it into a liquid. Excess heat is discharged to the outdoor air.

The refrigerant liquid is now forced through the pipe and back into the room through an expansion device, where it rapidly expands and drops sharply in temperature to a chill 45° F.

The chilled refrigerant liquid flows to the cooling coils while the fan blows room air across the coils through the filter, and into the room. In the process, the room air is both cooled and circulated.
As the air is cooled, it loses moisture, which collects on the cooling coils and then drips into a pan.
From this indoor pan, water flows downhill through the tubing to the outdoor pan. Usually excess water is sprayed by the fan onto the hot pipe coils where it evaporates and joins outdoor air.
In the meantime, the refrigerant gas is warmed to 60° F. by room air and travels through the pipe back to the compressor and starts the cycle over again.

Cooling in a hot dry climate

If you live in the American Southwest or some other dry area, consider air-conditioning your home with an evaporative cooler. These coolers use the natural process of water evaporation to cool indoor air. They contain a blower, fibrous pads, a small pump, and a water reservoir. When the unit is operating, the pump draws water from the reservoir and distributes it through small-diameter plastic tubes to the pads to keep them saturated. The blower draws outside air through the dampened pads to cool it, and then forces the cooled air into the house through grilles in a wall or ceiling. The cool, fresh incoming air pushes the warm, stale indoor air out of the house through the windows, which should be left open in the rooms to be cooled to allow for a free flow of air throughout the system.

An evaporative cooling unit can be mounted on the roof, flush in a gable wall, or on a concrete slab next to the house. Window units are also available. A typical evaporative cooler has two small electric motors (for the pump and the blower) with a total of 1/2 to 3/, horsepower. A comparable refrigerant-charged central air-conditioning unit contains three motors with a total of 31/ horsepower, and consumes 4 to 5 times as much energy


Before you can select a room air conditioner for your home, you must know the cooling capacity you need to keep you comfortable. You can arrive at a cooling capacity estimate in several ways.
Professional Estimate.
A salesman at a reputable air conditioner dealer can make an estimate for you if you bring him accurate information. Usually, the answers to the following questions are all following he or she needs.
1. What are the height, width, and length of the area to be cooled?
2. What are the number and sizes of windows and the directions they face?
3. Where is the space to be cooled located in the building?
4. Does the longest side face north, east, south, or west?
You can make a reasonably good estimate of your cooling needs by following the method outlined on the work sheet shown in Fig. 6. Just follow the instructions and fill in the blanks as in the sample problem. Substitute the numbers that apply to your room.
The final answer is stated in the units used to measure cooling capacity in conditioners—Btu's/hr.
If you plan to cool several rooms, do a calculation for each room and then add the answers to find your total cooling needs.


At least twice during the cooling season, check the pads of an evaporative cooler for mineral deposits or dust buildup, and replace them when necessary. In the winter, drain the reservoir and insulate the evaporative cooler to reduce heat loss. One easy way is to fill a plastic trash bag with insulation (p.457) and stuff it behind the grille the cooled air comes through. Proper care and maintenance will ensure long life and trouble-free service. The compressor and refrigeration system is of the hermetically-sealed type and requires no oiling. The fan motor is oiled at the factory. It should be oiled once a year with 5 to 10 drops of SAE No. 20 oil. Do not use an excessive amount of oil. To oil the fan motor, the chassis must be removed from the outer shell by removing the necessary screws, control knob, and discharge air front, and disengaging the humidistat from its normal location.

To remove chassis from outer case use the following procedure.
1. Pull plug from electrical outlet plug
2. Remove drain pan.
3. Remove control knob.
4. Remove six screws each on the side and front, and tilt front forward.
5. Remove humidistat mounting screws. Disconnect warning light wires on all units that have them.
6. Place the humidistat in a location where it cannot be damaged.
7. Pull chassis from outer case.

Use a vacuum cleaner periodically to remove accumulated dust and lint from the front and back of the dehumidifier. It is also advisable to remove the chassis once a year to clean all interior parts.